Volcanic Wines: Born from Fire, Rooted in Stone
What if your next glass of wine could take you back in time—millions of years—to a moment when fire burst from the earth, shaping entire landscapes with lava, ash, and steam? That’s exactly what happens every time you drink a volcanic wine.
These wines are grown in soils formed by ancient (or sometimes still-active) volcanoes, and they’re among the most distinctive and thrilling bottles in the wine world. They often share certain signature traits—vibrant acidity, salty minerality, and an electric tension on the palate—that are impossible to miss once you know what to look for. But the story of volcanic wine goes deeper than just flavor. It begins with geology, shaped by tectonic forces and explosive transformation.
This is my new favorite styles of wine. And we're doing a volcanic wine class Wednesday, May 28th.
Our wine classes fill up quick so don't miss out on the fun.
What Are Volcanic Wines?
Volcanic wines are produced from grapes grown in volcanic soils—that is, soils formed from volcanic rock, ash, pumice, basalt, or tuff. These can come from:
-
Active volcanoes (like Mount Etna in Sicily or Santorini in Greece),
-
Extinct volcanoes (like those in Soave, Italy or in the Canary Islands), or
-
Tectonically uplifted volcanic rock from ancient geologic events (like in Tokaj, Hungary).
As Master Sommelier John Szabo points out in his book Volcanic Wines: Salt, Grit, and Power, these soils are generally poor in nutrients but rich in minerals. This forces vines to struggle—digging deep into the earth in search of water and sustenance—which can result in smaller berries, lower yields, and more intense, expressive wines.
Volcanic Soils & Wine Character
Volcanic soils come in many forms:
-
Basalt: A dark, dense rock that retains heat and gives wines a structured, mineral backbone (common in Soave and Sicily).
-
Pumice & Lapilli: Lightweight volcanic stones that provide excellent drainage and air flow (seen in Lanzarote and Santorini).
We went to the Canary Islands in 2019. This is a photo of me next to one of the vines on Lanzarote.
-
Tuff & Rhyolite: Volcanic ash compressed over time into soft, porous rock, influencing wines from Tokaj and parts of Central Europe.
These different soil types impact the wine’s acidity, minerality, and texture—often resulting in wines with a flinty, stony, or even smoky quality. Think bright, zesty whites with a saline snap, or reds with savory earth tones and firm structure.
A Few Volcanic Wine Regions to Know
Here’s a look at some standout volcanic wine regions and what makes them so special:
Santorini, Greece
One of the most iconic volcanic terroirs in the world. The island is essentially a collapsed volcanic caldera. The soils are composed of pumice, ash, and lava rock. Vines are basket-trained low to the ground to protect them from wind. Wines like Domaine Sigalas Assyrtiko-Athiri are bracing, salty, and fiercely mineral-driven.
Soave Classico, Italy
The hills of Soave were once part of an underwater volcanic chain. Wines like Inama Vin Soave Classico are grown on basaltic soils and show delicate white flowers, almond, stone fruit, and a lingering mineral finish.
Tokaj, Hungary
Tokaj’s volcanic soils—formed from rhyolite, andesite, and volcanic tuff—aren’t from an active volcano, but from tectonic and volcanic activity in the Miocene era. Wines like Royal Tokaji’s “The Oddity” Dry Furmint are built on a frame of racy acidity, flint, and citrus, revealing the ancient fire buried beneath these noble vineyards.
Etna, Sicily
Mount Etna is Europe’s most active volcano, and its black, lava-strewn soils yield some of Italy’s most compelling wines. Grapes like Nerello Mascalese thrive here, producing reds that feel like a cross between Pinot Noir and Nebbiolo—delicate, yet earthy and powerful. Nicosia’s Nerello Mascalese, grown near Etna, channels this duality with red berries, herbs, and a smoky mineral finish.
Photo of our tasting while in the Canary Islands!
Lanzarote, Canary Islands
The vineyards here look like something from another planet—vines are planted in hand-dug craters in black ash, each surrounded by a crescent-shaped stone wall. Los Bermejos Listán Negro is light in body but intensely expressive, with notes of pepper, red fruit, and volcanic smoke.
Campania, Italy
Regions like Beneventano are deeply influenced by the legacy of Mount Vesuvius. Lapilli Aglianico Beneventano—named after the small stones ejected during eruptions—offers dark fruit, smoke, and rustic power, grown in volcanic ash-laced soils.
Why Volcanic Wines Matter
Volcanic wines are more than a trend—they’re a conversation between earth and vine, past and present. They allow you to taste the remnants of ancient eruptions, tectonic shifts, and geologic time. They remind us that wine is a living record of its origins, and in the case of volcanic terroir, those origins are dramatic, extreme, and unforgettable.
Whether you’re sipping a crisp Santorini Assyrtiko, a smoky red from Etna, or a nervy dry Furmint from Tokaj, you’re tasting the earth in one of its most dynamic forms.
Ready to explore volcanic wines?
Start a tasting flight at home or in a wine class with:
-
Domaine Sigalas Assyrtiko-Athiri (Greece)
-
Inama Vin Soave Classico (Italy)
-
Royal Tokaji “The Oddity” Dry Furmint (Hungary)
-
Nicosia Nerello Mascalese (Sicily)
-
Los Bermejos Listán Negro (Canary Islands)
-
Lapilli Aglianico Beneventano (Campania)
These bottles prove that when it comes to terroir, nothing leaves a mark quite like fire.