Roberto Henriquez Molino del Ciego
Molino del Ciego hails from a one-hectare block of 90-year-old Semillon vines planted on Itata’s granitic soils, surrounded by the local herbs and plants of the Itata valley. Like the other white wines from Roberto, the plot was hand harvested, the grapes were destemmed then allowed to naturally ferment with their skins in tanks, with the skin-contact lasting the duration of the fermentation. This is a gentle approach, and that is borne out in the wine’s gentle tannins and delicate skins-y flavors. But what I notice first with Molino del Ciego is the spicy, herbal notes that frame aromas of pear and apple. Somewhere between fennel and star anise, the nose is remarkable and fascinating. The fruit character and herbal spice continues on the palate, intermingling with vibrant, cooling and broad granitic minerality for a very long, appealing finish. A fascinating bottle, and a radically different expression of Semillon.