Out of necessity, good things sometimes emerge. So it went with the inaugural harvest for Soco Vinícola, founded in 2020 as an “express cooperative” for winegrowers on the island of Lanzarote. In the midst of the covid-19 pandemic, when wineries were not buying grapes, a group of growers got together to make their own wine. The name they chose, Soco, refers to the small walls constructed to protect each individual improbably green vine in an otherwise blank, black volcanic hillside. This 2021 white, the group’s second vintage, consists of Malvasía, Listán Blanco, and Diego. It fermented in stainless steel tanks with indigenous yeasts and aged for about four months before bottling. Carrying forward the unique qualities of its volcanic island, this intriguing wine reveals an elegant minerality on the palate. Orange blossom and pear notes dance on a medium-bodied foundation, with structured but unobtrusive acidity on the finish. Organically grown, low-intervention/natural wine.